Faucets, toilets, sinks, shut-off valves, tub and shower work, and the rough-in behind a Plymouth renovation — the everyday plumbing that makes a house work properly.
Plymouth is served by the Plymouth Village Water & Sewer District, which covers the downtown, the Plymouth State University campus area, and the surrounding neighborhoods. That makes it one of the better-served towns in the region for public utilities — and one of the busiest for plumbing, because of what the buildings are used for.
A significant share of Plymouth’s housing is student rental property: older houses on Highland Street, Merrill Street, and the streets around the campus, cut into apartments, occupied by six people where a family of four used to live. Drains that would last decades in a single-family house clog every semester. Fixtures get used four times as hard. Landlords need a plumber who answers in August and January when the turnover happens and something always fails.
The downtown has its own commercial layer — restaurants on Main Street with grease-line and backflow requirements, and businesses that lose money every hour they’re closed.
Outside the district — up toward Texas Hill, out along the Baker River, toward Rumney and Campton — it goes back to wells and septic, with the usual rural New Hampshire freeze exposure. The Baker and Pemigewasset river valleys also mean a number of Plymouth properties sit low, and a house with a wet basement has plumbing consequences: pressure tanks, water heaters, and pumps that sit in water don’t last.
Plymouth also anchors our northern service area — it’s the practical edge of the Lakes Region, and we’re there regularly.
If you rent out a Plymouth property, replace the tenant-accessible shut-offs before you need them. Old multi-turn stops under sinks and toilets seize shut, and a tenant who can’t stop a running toilet at 2am becomes a flooded unit by 4am.
Fixture work looks simple and often isn’t, particularly in older Lakes Region houses. A faucet swap turns into a real job the moment the shut-off valve under the sink won’t close — and in a house with original multi-turn stops, it usually won’t. We replace those valves as a matter of course rather than working around them, because a working shut-off at every fixture is the cheapest insurance in a house.
On remodels we do the rough-in: moving supply and waste to where the new layout wants them, setting vents properly, and getting it inspected before the walls close. Moving a toilet or a shower drain is a framing and venting problem as much as a pipe problem, and getting it wrong is expensive to discover after the tile is in. We’d rather be involved early, when a five-minute conversation can save a week.
We also do the unglamorous list that keeps a house dry: replacing failed hose bibs with frost-free ones, adding shut-offs where there aren’t any, and swapping supply lines that are past their life.
Straightforward fixture work — a faucet, a toilet, a set of shut-off valves — typically runs $200–$600 installed. Bathroom and kitchen remodel rough-in is quoted per project after seeing the plan; getting us in at the drawing stage usually saves more than it costs.
It is usually a $15 part and ten minutes, and most homeowners can do it. Call us if it keeps coming back, if the shut-off under it will not close, or if you are on a well — a running toilet cycles the pump continuously and will shorten the life of a pump that costs well over a thousand dollars to replace.
Yes. Moving a fixture means relocating both supply and drain, and the drain is the constraint — waste lines need proper fall and proper venting, which depends on what the floor framing allows. Bring us in while the layout is still on paper and we can tell you which moves are simple and which ones are expensive.
If they are old multi-turn stops and you have never touched them, yes. They seize in place, and you find out at the worst moment — with water spraying and no way to stop it short of shutting down the whole house. Quarter-turn ball valves are inexpensive and they work when you need them.
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