Closing a Gilmanton camp or lake house for the winter, or opening it back up in the spring — done methodically, documented in writing, so nothing gets missed and nothing splits in February.
Gilmanton covers a lot of ground for a town its size — Gilmanton Corner, Gilmanton Iron Works, and a long web of back roads through farmland and woods with houses set well off the pavement. There is no municipal water system and no town sewer. Effectively every property is on a drilled well with a pressure tank and a private septic system, which makes the homeowner responsible for the entire chain from the aquifer to the drain field.
That has practical consequences. A power outage here isn’t just an inconvenience — no power means no well pump, which means no water at all, and no way to flush. Gilmanton loses power more often and for longer than the village towns do, and homes with a generator or at least a stored-water plan get through winter storms a lot better. It also means water quality is entirely a private matter: no municipality is testing or treating what comes out of your tap.
The housing runs old. There are eighteenth- and nineteenth-century farmhouses out here that have had plumbing added, moved, and re-added across a century and a half, often with the original well line still entering through a fieldstone foundation. Add long dirt driveways, deep frost on exposed hillsides, and outbuildings with their own frost-free hydrants, and you get a specific Gilmanton failure list: frozen well lines at the foundation entry, waterlogged pressure tanks, and hydrants that were never drained.
Access is its own factor. Some of these roads are not maintained in winter, and we’d rather know that when you call than discover it at the end of the driveway.
Know where your pressure tank, pressure switch, and well shut-off are before something fails — and put a label on them. In a town with no municipal backup, five minutes of knowing where things are is the difference between a wet floor and a flooded basement.
Shutting down a seasonal house properly is not turning off a valve and opening the faucets. On a well system the pump is shut down, the pressure tank drained, the pump line relieved, and the whole distribution system blown out with compressed air at low, controlled pressure — because water left standing in a horizontal run is exactly where a pipe splits. Water heaters are drained. Every trap gets non-toxic RV antifreeze: sinks, tubs, showers, floor drains, and each toilet, with the tank and bowl emptied and treated.
Then the list nobody remembers. Whole-house filters and water softener tanks hold water and crack. Ice makers have a supply line and a reservoir. Dishwashers and washing machines hold water in the pump housing. Outdoor showers, dock hose bibs, boathouse sinks, wet bars, and irrigation zones all need to be drained separately. On a lake-draw system the foot valve and line have to come out of the water before ice-in.
We finish with a written record of what was drained, what was left charged, and where antifreeze went — so whoever opens the house in the spring, including a different person entirely, knows exactly what they’re walking into.
A standard Lakes Region camp winterization typically runs $175–$450 depending on the number of fixtures, whether it’s a well or town supply, and the extras (filters, softener, irrigation, boathouse). Spring startup runs similar. Booking both together is the way most owners do it.
Aim to be done by the end of October. The first hard freeze in the Lakes Region can arrive in early November and does not wait for your schedule. Waterfront and private-road properties should book earlier still, because access gets harder once the roads soften or the snow starts.
You can, and for a house you visit in winter it is often the better choice — but it is only as reliable as your power and your furnace. Most homeowner policies require a minimum interior temperature, commonly 55°F, or a shut-off water supply in a vacant home. If you leave heat on, add a low-temperature alarm so a heat failure does not become a burst pipe you find in April.
Water softeners and whole-house filter housings, ice maker lines, dishwasher and washing machine pump housings, and outdoor showers or dock hose bibs. All of them hold water, all of them crack, and none of them drain when you open the faucets. A written fixture list is the only reliable fix.
Tell us what’s happening and we’ll give you a straight answer — what it likely is, what it should cost, and when we can be there.
Describe what’s happening and where the property is. We’ll come back with a straight answer on what it likely is, what it should cost, and when we can be there. If it’s an emergency, say so in the first line.
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