Faucets, toilets, sinks, shut-off valves, tub and shower work, and the rough-in behind a New Hampton renovation — the everyday plumbing that makes a house work properly.
New Hampton runs from the Pemigewasset River up into hill country toward Center Harbor and Sanbornton, with the New Hampton School campus at its center and a scatter of houses along Route 104, Route 132, and a web of back roads. There’s no municipal water system serving the town generally — effectively every home is on a drilled well with a pressure tank, and a private septic system on the other end.
That means the classic well-country problem list. Waterlogged pressure tanks that make the pump short-cycle. Pressure switches that stick. Well lines entering through fieldstone or block foundations where cold comes in with the pipe. Pumps that quit with no warning and no water at all until someone comes out. And the underlying reality that a power outage here means no water, period.
The pond and small-lake camps — around Pemigewasset Lake and the smaller waters — are the seasonal component: modest camps, simple systems, closed each fall. They’re quick to winterize when it’s done right and expensive when it isn’t, because a small camp with a burst line is still a full interior repair.
The rest of it is farmhouses and year-round homes that have been added onto over a long time, with plumbing that ran wherever it was convenient in whatever year it was installed. Long driveways, deep frost on exposed ground, and outbuildings with their own water are all part of the picture.
If your New Hampton well pump is short-cycling — clicking on and off every few seconds when you run a tap — stop using the water and get it looked at. That’s usually a waterlogged pressure tank, and running it that way burns out a pump that costs several times more to replace.
Fixture work looks simple and often isn’t, particularly in older Lakes Region houses. A faucet swap turns into a real job the moment the shut-off valve under the sink won’t close — and in a house with original multi-turn stops, it usually won’t. We replace those valves as a matter of course rather than working around them, because a working shut-off at every fixture is the cheapest insurance in a house.
On remodels we do the rough-in: moving supply and waste to where the new layout wants them, setting vents properly, and getting it inspected before the walls close. Moving a toilet or a shower drain is a framing and venting problem as much as a pipe problem, and getting it wrong is expensive to discover after the tile is in. We’d rather be involved early, when a five-minute conversation can save a week.
We also do the unglamorous list that keeps a house dry: replacing failed hose bibs with frost-free ones, adding shut-offs where there aren’t any, and swapping supply lines that are past their life.
Straightforward fixture work — a faucet, a toilet, a set of shut-off valves — typically runs $200–$600 installed. Bathroom and kitchen remodel rough-in is quoted per project after seeing the plan; getting us in at the drawing stage usually saves more than it costs.
It is usually a $15 part and ten minutes, and most homeowners can do it. Call us if it keeps coming back, if the shut-off under it will not close, or if you are on a well — a running toilet cycles the pump continuously and will shorten the life of a pump that costs well over a thousand dollars to replace.
Yes. Moving a fixture means relocating both supply and drain, and the drain is the constraint — waste lines need proper fall and proper venting, which depends on what the floor framing allows. Bring us in while the layout is still on paper and we can tell you which moves are simple and which ones are expensive.
If they are old multi-turn stops and you have never touched them, yes. They seize in place, and you find out at the worst moment — with water spraying and no way to stop it short of shutting down the whole house. Quarter-turn ball valves are inexpensive and they work when you need them.
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